The Iceland Saga Vol. 1
March 2019, Erin had a birthday. For many years leading up to this birthday, she had always expressed a desire to go to Iceland. I remember her talking about it back when we were in New Zealand. So, I worked as much overtime as I could for a few months leading up to her birthday. I lied and told her I wanted to save all my overtime for a new rifle or possibly a new vehicle. I told her she should probably save a bit too as our car was starting to act up. When her big day came, we were on a ski trip to Golden and went to a fancy restaurant. While Erin couldn’t hear, we told the waitress it was her birthday. She suggested we really surprise her and do cake first. We were shown to our seats, served our drinks, and had our orders taken. Shortly after the waitress came up, apologized and explained that the restaurant was build in a converted house that’s just over 100 years old. She further explained that they were having some electrical issues and needed to flip the breaker and shut the lights off for a moment. We all shrugged a “whatcanyoudo?” Suddenly, cake and candles rounded the corner. We were all surprised for some reason, but we quickly helped sing. Erin was handed her gifts and I gave her an Iceland guide book and wrote “let’s go here” on it. In a note, I explained that I saved money for the trip, and that was her gift. I then realized I had failed to plan the trip… so I guess it was half a gift…. classic men… get it together. Anyway, Erin and I (mostly Erin) planned the trip in short order and in late August we took to the air to get to the ice.
Our flight landed at 6 am local time. As our bus took us into town I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the landscape. It seemed little more than moss and rocks. It was beautiful but truly empty. We found our campsite and got settled in. Food and accommodations can be quite pricy in Iceland, so many people, like Erin and I, opt to bring a tent and camp the entire time. Our initial itinerary was to catch a bus to Landmannalaugaur (a hiking hub/basecamp) and hike the Laugavegur trail. We expected the hike to take 4 or 5 days. Then we would rent a car and explore the towns along the coast. BUT FIRST, I needed breakfast. Thanks to the conveniences of modern technology, my phone was able to point us to a bakery. We bought ourselves some ham and cheese-filled pastry, light and flakey like a croissant. Upon returning to our campsite we saw a severe weather warning for the hike we were intending to do. When it comes to changing plans and rolling with the punches Erin is a champ, and I tag along. Her plan was simple. We would flip our itinerary. Travel the coast first in a rental car and, time and weather permitting, do the hike at the end. We took the remainder of the day to explore Reykjavik, as blind luck would have it, there was a large cultural festival happening. Along the streets, there were theater-style plays, a rock concert, art installations, street vendors, and all the shops had sales on. I had fish and chips from a street vendor and they were amazing.
The following morning we went and retrieved our rental car. Turns out there was no issue picking it up a few days early. We tore down our camp and struck out west for adventure. We spent the day driving into the West Fjords. No small task, I must say. It was a long journey full of sharp twists and turns in the rain. All done heroically in a very small hatchback that was making some very troubling noises from one of the rear tires… glad I got the extra insurance. Along the way, we made several stops at roadside turnouts to see various craters and waterfalls. We eventually found a campsite we liked, in Isafjodur, unfortunately the weather left something to be desired. It was raining, still. We set up our tent and hid in the little common area to cook some supper. We chatted with the other campers and enjoyed the heater on full blast. We then went back to our tent and did something wild and new… we had snacks, in bed, in our tent. It was amazing, you simply cannot do that in Canada or you’ll be a snack for a bear, or wolf, or cougar, or some other large predator. To me, its the hardest part of camping, I love a midnight snack.
The next morning we decided to do a little hike. It was straight up from our campsite along a waterfall and actually crossed it a few times. It was a real hard push but the view at the top was well worth it. It was also a good opportunity to test out my new hiking poles. I somehow seem to keep ending up taking untested gear on big trips. After the hike, we went into the town. We hit a small museum in town before leaving. It was primarily the history of the village and its fishing but I also came across a polar bear hide and an old Brno .22 similar to the one my step-dad has. The story has it, that in 1963 a polar bear drifted from Greenland on an iceberg and a local out collecting duck eggs was able to successfully shoot it. I also learned that for many centuries Iceland’s primary building material was driftwood that made its way to Icelandic shores all the way from Siberia. Both of these fascinate me equally. I feel like, had he not shot the polar bear, no one would have ever believed him. I also doubt that either Siberians or Icelanders knew the relationship they had. We then drove to Akureyri, far east of the West Fjords region. We would have loved to stay and explore the Fjords more but travel was quite slow in that landscape and we had limited time. Once we arrived I was treated to a real Iceland delicacy, a hotdog cooked in Pilsner beer and wrapped in bacon. Served on a soft bun with crunchy fried onions. It was amazing. We ended our day with a soak in the local pool.
The next day was to be our biggest. We drove straight to the hot springs in Myvtan. We were told they were a less busy version of the famous blue lagoon hot springs. The water was hot, and the facilities clean, it was a good way to start our big tour. In the area there was a lot to see:
Pseudocraters (created by water escaping through lava flows)
Grjótagjá (which was featured in Game Of Thrones… we did a lot of quoting)
Hverir (boiling mud pools that constantly change a small portion of the landscape)
Viti crater and accompanying geothermal powerplant (it looked like a space station)
Dettifoss (the most powerful waterfall in Europe)
We then made the long drive to Asbyrgi it was a long drive down a one-lane gravel road. When we set out we did not realize how long it would take us. It was still worth the visit though. It is a huge valley created in a matter of days, thousands of years ago, after volcanic activity broke an ice dam and several large glacial lakes drained into the sea and eroded the landscape along the way. Inside the valley, the walls were steep and jagged, the trees inside were thick and lush, at the end of the valley was a pool of still water. Erin and I walked in and there were a few other tourists looking at it in total silence. No one said more than a gentle whisper. Something about this place demanded silence, no one dared question it. We walked back to the car and made the long drive to our campsite in Egilsstader.
The next day was our last day to really explore with our car as we had solidified our plan to start the hike the following day. By this time in our trip, we had circled back to just east of Reykjavik, so the sights became a little busier. The first stop of the day was Iceberg lagoon, full of seals, icebergs, kayaks, tour boats, tourists, and photoshoots. It was quite a sight. Across the road was Diamond beach, in fact, Iceberg Lagoon drains onto Diamond Beach. It gets its name from bits of ice washing up on the black sand and sparkling like diamonds. One thing I insisted on seeing was a crashed airplane on the beach. The story has it that the plane ran out of fuel and the USAF didn’t bother to come to pick it up. It was about a 45-minute hike each way to see it. It was very crowded and, despite the posted signs, people were climbing all over it. I found it a touch disappointing but I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, its an interesting attraction that’s relatively easy to access. We then checked into a rather run-down campsite in Hella and booked a bus ticket to take us to Landmannalauger. The following day we would start our Icelandic backcountry hike, but I’ll save that for my next post.
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